Fashion and Costume

One of the most influential designers of this century draws from a wide range of cultural and historical sources to create images that are provocative, emotional, sometimes shocking, and always beautiful. This new book chronicles nine of her most dynamic stage and screen productions from the past fifteen years, including: Bram Stoker's "Dracula," directed by Francis Ford Coppola, "M. Butterfly," starring Anthony Hopkins, Richard Wagner's "Ring of the Nibelung," and "The Cell," starring Jennifer Lopez. In the accompanying text, Eiko takes us into her creative process and the harmonies and discords of her fascinating, explosive collaborations with such artists as Paul Schrader, David Copperfield, and Philip Glass, among many others. In counterpoint, Francis Ford Coppola shares his personal experience of a unique creative collaboration.

The bestselling collection of the work of legendary Japanese media artist Eiko Ishioka makes its softcover debut in a glorious new edition, complete with over two thousand magnificent full-color images. Superbly designed and crafted, this splendid volume presents a survey of Eiko's pioneering work in a full array of media: art direction and graphic design of books, posters, magazines, and packaging; production design for film, television, video, and theater; and staging of fashion shows and museum exhibitions. Included here, too, are fifteen essays written by her renowned colleagues in japanese arts, letters, fashion, and industry, notably Akira Kurosawa, Issey Miyake, Ikko Tanaka, and Isamu Noguchi.

The definitive, deluxe art book from costume design legend Ruth E. Carter. Ruth E. Carter is a living legend of costume design. For three decades, she has shaped the story of the Black experience on screen--from the '80s streetwear of Do the Right Thing to the royal regalia of Coming 2 America. Her work on Marvel's Black Panther not only brought Afrofuturism to the mainstream, but also made her the first Black winner of an Oscar in costume design. In 2021, she became the second-ever costume designer to receive a star on the Hollywood Walk of Fame. In this definitive book, Carter shares her origins--recalling a trip to the sporting goods store with Spike Lee to outfit the School Daze cast and a transformative moment stepping inside history on the set of Steven Spielberg's Amistad.

Go behind the scenes with exclusive concept artwork and in-depth analysis from the filmmakers in this keepsake volume! Featuring art and costume design creations by Ruth E. Carter.

The first monograph on American fashion designer Bonnie Cashin -- one of the most important designers of the last century -- this book will appeal to all who love 21st-century style and fashion, from devotees of Chanel to Ralph Lauren. A groundbreaking work on American fashion designer Bonnie Cashin, acclaimed for inventing sportswear, and one of the most imitated designers of all time.

Dissertation--Ph.D; Bard College, 2009
This dissertation examines the life and career of American fashion and film costume designer Bonnie Cashin (1907–2000). Although Cashin is best known as a pioneer of American sportswear and for "modern" ready-to-wear fashion designs after 1950, this dissertation considers the totality of her work. It begins with her childhood dressmaking "apprenticeship" and then considers Cashin's careers in dance and film costume design as well as fashion design and evaluates her role as an advocate and critic of the fashion industry from the 1950s until her death in 2000.

Dissertation--M.S.; Iowa State University, 2007
This thesis examined a group of five Bonnie Cashin-designed showroom and runway garments and other design- and marketing-related materials (sketches, patterns, and press essays) in the Textiles and Clothing Museum (TCM) at Iowa State University. Her manufacturer, Philip Sills, donated these materials. Cashin was an American ready-to-wear fashion designer well-known for her use of leather, suede, textured fabrics, and hardware-style closures. The recognizable "Cashin look" was layered using ponchos, capes, coats, and other garments such as jumpsuits that all incorporated leather or suede as trim or major design and structural elements. The materials analyzed in this study are typical of Cashin's work with Sills and date from 1962 to 1975. Research goals were to: (1) connect these garments to Cashin's design process and philosophy; (2) understand the Sills manufacturing process; (3) understand Cashin's role in marketing such pieces; and (4) determine if these artifacts were produced commercially.

All About Eve. Funny Face. Sunset Blvd. Rear Window. Sabrina. A Place in the Sun. The Ten Commandments. Scores of iconic films of the last century had one thing in common: costume designer Edith Head (1897-1981). She racked up an unprecedented 35 Oscar nods and 400 film credits over the course of a fifty-year career. Never before has the account of Hollywood's most influential designer been so thoroughly revealed,because never before have the Edith Head Archives of the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences been tapped. This unprecedented access allows this book to be a one-of-a-kind survey, bringing together a spectacular collection of rare and never-before-seen sketches, costume test shots, behind-the- scenes photos, and ephemera.

Edith Head is widely considered the most important figure in the history of Hollywood costume design. Her career spanned nearly half a century and included such classic films as Rear Window and Sunset Boulevard. Her private life and professional achievements have been the subject of speculation since she rose to the top in the late 1940s. Ruthlessly competitive and intensely secretive, Head had few close friends and many detractors. Her longtime friend, protégé, and confidant David Chierichetti offers a privileged glimpse into the personality behind the famously impenetrable "schoolmarm" façade and a comprehensive account of her creative process. With more than 150 images -- including family snapshots, sketches, and studio portraits of the stars and roles she helped to create, Edith Head is a fresh and vital portrait of the designer, as well as of the era she epitomizes.

Winner of eight Oscars for costume design, the author describes some of the hundreds of productions she worked on and gives her personal impressions of the actors and actresses for whom she created costumes.

Edith Head, world-famous fashion designer and seven-time Academy Award winner tells how to dress for success in business, in love, in society, in marriage, in school, in old age, for your husband, for your children

This interview expounds on the career of celebrated African American costume designer Paul Tazewell and the indelible contribution he has made to the international theatre community, television, and film. From his first introduction to the performing arts to his many successes on Broadway, his striking and authentic designs tell stories in living color. Awarded countless times for his excellence in design, Paul has sealed his legacy as one of the most sought-after designers of his generation.

The incredible untold story of how Ann Lowe, a Black woman and granddaughter of slaves, rose above personal struggles and racial prejudice to design and create one of America's most famous wedding dresses of all time for Jackie Kennedy. Based on the true story of one of the most famous designers of the twenties through the sixties who has since been unjustly forgotten, By Her Own Design is an unforgettable novel of determination despite countless obstacles and a triumph celebrated by the world.

An inspiring picture book biography about the amazing Ann Lowe--the first nationally-known African American fashion designer. Award-winning author Kate Messner, costume historian Margaret E. Powell, and fashion designer and illustrator Erin Robinson tell the powerful story of the ground-breaking Ann Lowe, who grew up in a small Alabama dress shop and became the first nationally-known African American fashion designer. Sought after by millionaires and movie stars, her designs walked the red carpet and graced the wedding of Senator John F. Kennedy and Jacqueline Bouvier.

Vivienne Westwood is a global fashion icon whose career has spanned three decades. This book, published to accompany the first retrospective of her work, at the Victoria and Albert Museum, London, highlights one woman's creative journey from the early days of punk to the establishment of her own fashion house. Westwood has been an influence on the worlds of art, music, and fashion since the early 1970s. One of the first designers to create subversive fashion, clothes that disseminated political messages, she later found inspiration in history and literature, producing clothes that are witty, original, and technically accomplished. The book's 200 photographs, a mix of ad campaigns, fashion shoots, catwalk shots, and archival images, many rarely seen or long forgotten, chart the evolution of Westwood's work from outfits worn by the Sex Pistols to more recent creations for Sarah Jessica Parker, Cameron Diaz, and artist Tracy Emin.

Vivienne Westwood was the Queen of Punk Rock and her fashions have scandalized and fascinated the world since the Sixties. Parading models bare-breasted down the catwalks of Paris, posing pantiless outside Buckingham Palace - she has an insatiable appetite for anarchic outrageousness. She has never lost her power to shock, and her continued innovations make her one of the most talked-about fashion designers in the world. Vivienne Westwood describes for the first time in detail Westwood's childhood and early years; it also exposes the inside story of her stormy and bizarre relationship with musician and fashionista Malcolm McLaren. Fred Vermorel looks at the origins of Westwood's witty and erotic sensibility, placing it in the context of the Sixties, and throwing light on the dynamics of punk and on Westwood's later ability to tap into the inner logic of fashion - a Romantic perversity which is at the heart of mass consumption itself.

A full-scale retrospective of Oscar de la Renta's work, this magnificent volume, which accompanies an exhibition at the Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco, features the designs that defined the fashion icon's long career. In this fabulous book, readers will be immersed in the designs that made Oscar de la Renta one of fashion's most influential designers, who dressed celebrities, American First Ladies, and socialites from around the world. Thematic sections will trace de la Renta's journey, from his upbringing in the Dominican Republic; the rise of his career in Spain, where he gained his first commissions; his formative years spent in the world's preeminent fashion houses; and the eventual creation of the company that bears his name. Luxurious color illustrations include images from his historic 1973 fashion show at Versailles, his designs worn from the red carpet to the White House by glamor icons such as Sarah Jessica Parker and Taylor Swift, along with state dinner-worthy creations made exclusively for Hillary Clinton and Laura Bush.

In October 2014 one of the fashion world's champions, Oscar de la Renta, passed away, a great loss brightened by the innumerable successes of his half-century reign. The acclaimed fashion designer dressed first ladies from Kennedy to Obama, and celebrities from Jackie O to Beyonce.

"Oscar completely understands who he is and who he is dressing...He's never tried to be avant-garde or difficult. He just does really good clothes, never overtly sexy but attractive, colorful and feminine." Anna Wintour Oscar de la Renta is one of the most celebrated and famed fashion designers and couturiers in the world--a renaissance man of American fashion. Born in the Dominican Republic, he has played a central role in the fashion scene for over forty years and has dressed everyone in the celebrity world. Brimming with images from Oscar de la Renta's personal albums and iconic fashion photography, this beautifully updated volume of the 2002 edition of 'Oscar de la Renta: The Style, Inspiration, and Life of Oscar de la Renta' gives an inside view of the designer's creative inspirations and private world. Renowned fashion writer Sarah Mower chronicles the story of this always relevant and beloved luminary--from the beginning of his storied career through today--a man whose artistic, generous spirit transcends his fashion creations. 150 illustrations

Since launching his first fashion collection in 1973, Manfred Thierry Mugler has been celebrated for his fierce creative vision. Drawing inspiration from everything from architecture and theatre to Old Hollywood and futurism, Mugler not only designs his collections, but also stages his own shows, directs the advertising campaigns, and photographs his fantastical creations. Including both iconic and never-before-published images, this book is illustrated with more than 150 photographs from his captivating personal collection and includes a travel journal-inspired text that follows Mugler around the world on his shoots, offering a behind-the-scenes look at how the images came to be.

The definitive book on the iconic couturier and fashion revolutionary Thierry Mugler Thierry Mugler has, since the creation of his label in 1974, continuously revolutionized contemporary fashion with his singular, imaginative vision. Beyond creating his iconic ready-to-wear and haute couture garments, Mugler inhabits multiple worlds as a photographer, director, choreographer, and perfumer. Lavishly designed and richly illustrated, the book traces Mugler's career and reveals never-before-seen material by photographers such as Helmut Newton, Richard Avedon, and David LaChapelle.

Before Off-White, before Hood By Air, before Supreme, there was WilliWear. Willi Smith created inclusive and liberating fashion: "I don't design clothes for the queen, but the people who wave at her as she goes by," he said. A rising star from the time he left Parsons, Smith went on to found WilliWear with Laurie Mallet in 1976 and became one of the most successful designers of his era by his untimely death in 1987. Smith broke boundaries with his streetwear, or "street couture," and trailblazed the collaborations between artists, performers, and designers commonplace today in projects with SITE Architects, Nam June Paik, Christo and Jeanne-Claude, Spike Lee, Dan Friedman, Bill T. Jones, and Arnie Zane.

Patrick Kelly (1954-1990) was known for his bold, bright, and joyful fashion creations that resonated in the streets and nightclubs and on the runways of New York, Paris, and beyond. The first American and the first Black designer to be admitted to the governing body of the French fashion industry, Kelly boasted celebrity couture clients including Madonna, Cicely Tyson, and Gloria Steinem. His designs are distinguished by a combination of playful aesthetics and a willingness to brazenly foreground race and heritage and push cultural boundaries, including racial tropes like golliwogs, or Black baby dolls. Generously illustrated with hundreds of images of runway photography, garments on mannequins, and never-before-published archival materials, this book is an unprecedented exploration of Kelly's influential career, which was tragically cut short by complications from AIDS. More than 80 of Kelly's most beloved works are featured alongside thoughtful essays focusing on his work in relationship to French fashion, Queer identity, Black identity, and his exuberant runway shows. Also featured is a detailed timeline decorated with archival photographs and drawings, making this volume the definitive resource on Kelly's life and work.

Extravagant and supersexy, the fashions of Gianni Versace (1946-1997) combined the expert craftsmanship and luxury of haute couture with the sheer creativity of the street. Instantly recognizable for their glamour quotient -- who could forget Elizabeth Hurley in her slit-up-to-there Safety-pin Dress? -- the deceptively fragile designs utilized innovative fabrics and meticulous construction to anchor their illusions. Although thoroughly modern, the clothes also drew inspiration from fine art: Versace counted Delaunay, Calder, and Klimt among his influences.This fun, flamboyant paperback befits Versace's duality -- high art mixed with media hype, delicate garments built from durable materials.

Richard Martin, Curator in Charge, The Costume Institute, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, has written a conceptual and analytical text that both places Versace's work in historical context and provides new insights into the major inspirations and themes of the designer.

Weaving together elegance, delicacy, and femininity, Carolina Herrera has defined a graceful aesthetic that is all her own. Born into an aristocratic Venezuelan family, Herrera's fashion sensibilities developed at the age of 13 when she attended her first fashion show. From her emergence as a renowned beauty surrounded by royals and artists like Andy Warhol, to being known as the woman who dresses women who know how to dress, Carolina Herrera has established herself as a fashion icon. Through the celebrated photographies of Annie Leibovitz, Francesco Scavullo, Horst, Robert Mapplethorpe, and Mario Testino, as well as the words of friends, colleagues, and admirers such as Calvin Klein, Ian Schrager and Bianca Jagger, Carolina Herrera is a portrait of one of today's most timeless designers. With an introduction by Hamish Bowles, this book tells the story of one of fashion's most remarkable women.

During her thirty-five year career, the Venezuelan-American fashion designer Carolina Herrera has dressed First Ladies from Jackie Kennedy to Michelle Obama, royalty, celebrities, and her faithful international clientele. A perennial favorite on red carpets around the world, Herrera has a loyal, impassioned following for gowns that New York Magazine has called "refined and achingly elegant." This book, to be illustrated with archival and new photography of designs from 1981 through present day, is the first to focus on this important American designer's career.

The first monograph on fashion designer Prabal Gurung, packed with stories, design inspiration, and never-before-seen photographs In February 2017, Prabal Gurung ended his show with a parade of feminist tees featuring phrases like "This Is What a Feminist Looks Like," "Voices for Choices," and "We Will Not Be Silenced." A year later, his collection took inspiration from two female-dominated Asian cultures. Activism is built into designer Gurung's ethos and the celebration of female empowerment serves as a constant focal point of his designs. He presents femininity with a bite, beauty with substance, and a diverse, inclusive world that is "Stronger in Color."Prabal Gurung offers a window into Gurung's design process, and it is filled with inspiration, mood boards, sketches, runway shots, and photographs of the clothing from the last 10 years. The Prabal Gurung woman is modern, intelligent, elegant, assured, and socially responsible, and this book is a celebration of people of all ages, races, shapes, sizes, sexualities, and identities.