Fashion and Costume

Derided by some as frivolous, even dangerous, and celebrated by others as art, fashion is a fascinating and controversial topic. Behind the hype and the glamour is an industry that affects all cultures of the world. A potent force in the global economy, fashion is also highly influential in everyday lives, even amongst those who may feel impervious. This volume is a one-stop reference to all aspects of fashion - its meaning, history and theory. From Avedon to Codpiece, Dandyism to the G-String, Japanese Fashion to Subcultures, Trickle Down to Zoot Suit, The Berg Companion to Fashion provides a comprehensive overview of fashion and will serve as the benchmark guide to the subject for many years to come.

Fascinating, fact-filled compendium defines over 10,000 words associated with wearing apparel and fashion. From bateau necklines to trilbys and vamps, individual terms are assembled alphabetically in groups according to dress parts, fabrics, and other style categories. Enhanced with over 750 clearly detailed illustrations, this comprehensive guide will be welcomed by writers, designers, and historians.

This seminal text demystifies the terminology of working in the fashion industry today, providing definitions of processes, techniques, features, and even some historical terms that you need to know. The dictionary now includes coverage of sustainability, smart materials, new technologies, and processes. This book has been reorganized in a purely alphabetical order for easy reference. Lavishly illustrated with over 800 illustrations capturing the styles and details of fashion, this reference work is a must have for students, designers, fashion merchandisers, librarians, and fashion enthusiasts.

This new reference provides a broad overview of contemporary fashion accessories. Not only does the work focus on individual categories of fashion, but it also examines the components from which accessories are constructed. This encyclopedia is a comprehensive resource for anyone seeking information about fashion accessories.

Students, designers, and anyone who has a love of clothes will find The Fashion Encyclopedia to be an essential reference for clothing terminology in both historical and contemporary contexts. From types of embroidery and lace to definitions for clothing styles and stitching, from panniers and plackets to the difference between a batwing and a dolman sleeve, it's all here in this exhaustive and easy-to-follow volume. Inside, hundreds of definitions of every conceivable item of clothing, from hats to heels, can be found, along with all the key words, technical terms, industry jargon, and more, including: Fashion Terminology & Trends Clothing styles Accessories Components of Garments Tailoring and Stitching Textiles and Fabrics More than 300 hundred stunning fashion archive and runway images, as well as detailed line drawings and close-up photographs, will help explain and demonstrate the techniques, fashion movements, and styles.

The Style Thesaurus examines a wide range of looks, investigates their roots in history and culture, and shows how they can be curated or combined.

The author provides detailed information on the life and works of every important fashion designer from 1840 onwards, with over one thousand entries, including couturiers, hat and knitwear specialists, costume designers, jewellers and hairdressers as well as photographers and illustraters.

Ultimate and unprecedented, American Fashion is a richly illustrated celebration of the history of fashion in this country. Commissioned by the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA), AMERICAN FASHION is a visual journey beginning with the protean creators in Hollywood and New York during the1930s and the significant and creative expansion that took place in the years surrounding World War II. Also included is a collection of portraits of the CFDA's historic and contemporary designers. Elegant and definitive, with over 300 iconic photographs and the work of more than 100 designers, the book captures the superlative work of American designers as seen by the century's greatest photographers and illustrators. American Fashion is the essential modern atlas for over 70 exciting years of great American fashion.

In the same series as the bestselling American Fashion and American Fashion Accessories, Assouline and the Council of Fashion Designers of America present Men's American Fashion, the most authoritative and exciting book to date on the evolution of menswear in our country over the past century. From Levi Strauss to the Ivy League, lounge suits to Zoot suits, cowboys to counterculture, Men's American Fashion celebrates the quintessentially American themes that are emulated throughout the world of fashion, as well as the designers and style icons who have made lasting contributions to the way men dress.

This lavishly illustrated chronicle of American women's fashions examines relationships between the mass-market ready-to-wear industry, fashion journalism, and fashion advertising. Throughout the twentieth century, these industries fueled one another's successes by identifying an ever-widening consumer class and fanning the desire to be fashionable. Daniel Hill employs a wealth of primary source material to document not only this symbiosis but also an evolution in American fashion, society, and culture, as evidenced by more than six hundred fashion ads that appeared in Vogue from the magazine's debut in 1893 through the next ten decades.

In The Beautiful Generation, Thuy Linh Nguyen Tu explores the role of Asian American designers in New York's fashion industry, paying particular attention to how they relate to the garment workers who produce their goods and to Asianness as a fashionable commodity. She draws on conversations with design students, fashion curators, and fashion publicists; interviews with nearly thirty Asian American designers who have their own labels; and time spent with those designers in their shops and studios, on their factory visits, and at their fashion shows. The Beautiful Generation links the rise of Asian American designers to historical patterns of immigration, racial formation, and globalized labor, and to familial and family-like connections between designers and garment workers.

This book, inspired by the award-winning exhibition at the Museum at FIT, uncovers hidden histories of Black designers at a time when conversations about representation and racialized experiences in the fashion industry have reached all-time highs.In chapters from leading and up-and-coming authors and curators, Black Designers in American Fashion uses previously unexplored sources to show how Black designers helped build America's global fashion reputation. Interweaving fashion design and American cultural history, this book fills critical gaps in the history of fashion and offers insights and context to students of fashion, design, and American and African American history and culture.

Drawing from Susan Sontag's seminal essay "Notes on Camp," the book explores how fashion designers have used their métier as a vehicle to engage with the camp aesthetic in compelling, humorous, and sometimes incongruous ways. As a sartorial manifestation of the camp sensibility, this thought-provoking publication contributes new theoretical and conceptual insights into the camp canon through texts and images.

Fashion Nation argues that popular images of the United States as a place of glitter and lights, of gaudy costumes and dizzying visual surfaces--usually understood as features of technomodernity--were in fact brewed in the rich, strange world of early nineteenth-century British and European folk nationalism when nations were compelled to offer visual manifestations of their allegedly true ancestral form. Showing that folk and ethnic nationalism played a central role in writing and culture, the book draws on a rare and colorful visual archive of national costumes, cartoons, theatrical spectacles, and immersive entertainments to show how the United States sprung to life as a visual space for transatlantic audiences. Fashion Nation not only includes chapters on major U.S. travel writers like Nathaniel Parker Willis and James Fenimore Cooper, but it also presents explorations of the vogue for folk and ethnic costume, the role of Indigenous dress in Wild West spectacles, and the nationalistic décor on display at late nineteenth-century world's fairs and amusement parks. Engagingly written and beautifully illustrated, Fashion Nation opens the door to a forgotten legacy of visual symbols that still inhabit ethnic and white nationalism in the United States today, showing how fantasies of glittery surfaces were designed to draw the eye away from a sordid history.

This book is the first in-depth exploration of the revolutionary designers who defined American fashion in its emerging years and helped build an industry with global impact, yet have been largely forgotten. Focusing on female designers, the authors reclaim a place in history for the women who created not only for celebrities and socialites, but for millions of fashion-conscious customers across the United States. From one of America‘s first couturiers, Jessie Franklin Turner, to Zelda Wynn Valdes, the book captures the lost histories of the luminaries who paved the way in the world of American fashion design. This fully illustrated collection takes us from Hollywood to Broadway, from sportswear to sustainable fashion, and explores important crossovers between film, theater, and fashion.

Groundbreaking in its focus on the everyday clothing of ordinary American women--a subject neglected in most fashion histories--Real Clothes, Real Lives highlights over 300 garments and accessories from the Smith College Historic Clothing Collection. This unique survey honors countless lives, tracing through the lens of dress how women's roles have changed over the decades.

Americans began the twentieth century standing in Europe's sartorial shadow, yet ended by outfitting the world in blue jeans, T-shirts and sneakers. How did this come about? What changes in American culture were reflected in fashion? What role did popular culture play? This important overview of American fashion in the twentieth century considers how Americans went from imitating British and French fashion to developing their own sense of style. It examines such influences on dress as class, jazz and hip hop, war, the space race, movies, television and sports. Further, the book shows how gender, psychology, advertising, public policy, shifting family values, the American design movement and expertise in mass production profoundly influenced an American style that has been exported across the globe.

Dress and fashion practices in Africa and the diaspora are dynamic and diverse, whether on the street or on the fashion runway. Focusing on the dressed body as a performance site, African Dress explores how ideas and practices of dress contest or legitimize existing power structures through expressions of individual identity and the cultural and political order.Drawing on innovative, interdisciplinary research by established and up and coming scholars, the book examines real life projects and social transformations that are deeply political, revolving around individual and public goals of dignity, respect, status, and morality.

The historiography of the Great War has been significantly renewed in recent years; yet, despite its crucial social, economic, and cultural importance, the role that fashion played in shaping wartime experiences and economies on an international scale between 1914 and 1918 has largely gone unaddressed. Fashion, Society, and the First World War fills this gap by offering a comprehensive analysis of the impact of the war on the ways that the fashion industry functioned in a global wartime economy, as well as on the ways that women and men negotiated this new world.With an international, thematic approach, and illustrated in full color throughout, this volume discusses the reconfiguration of the fashion industry, wartime style and production, and the reframing of selfhood, gender roles, and national identity through visual, print and material culture.

First English translation of critically-acclaimed book opens the door to the fascinating universe of fashion. This book is not just a history of fashion from the early days of the creation of dressmaking fashion to the development of ready-to-wear manufacturing and the global enterprise it is today. Its ambition is to be the story of the creation, the evolution, and the implosion of the fashion related professions. With readable, highly-informative, and entertaining text--coupled with stunning photography--this book offers valuable insights into a profession which, unlike any other social body, is determined as much by its origins as by its economic context.

Spanning East to West, kimonos and kimono-influenced designs are everywhere, from high-end couturiers such as Yohji Yamamoto and Gucci to Main Street fashion chains such as Uniqlo and H&M. In Kimono Refashioned, contributors explore the impact of the kimono on the fashion world, charting how these striking and elegant unisex garments came to transcend their traditional Japanese design origins. Featuring highlights from the renowned Kyoto Costume Institute, this lavish volume documents Japanese and Western designs, men's and women's apparel, and both exacting and impressionistic references to the kimono.

This book is a long overdue assessment of Latin America's influence on global fashion. The authors examine the significance of textiles and dress to Latin American culture and the reasons behind it from fashion history to popular culture and the (re)making of traditional garments, such as the poncho, the guayabera and maguey-fiber sandals. This book also considers fashion icons such as Frida Kahlo and Eva Peron, women who have been worshipped and transformed into marketable symbols of exoticism and passion, as well as the key role that dress played in their rise to celebrity on the international stage.

In 1939, fashion became an economic and symbolic sphere of great importance in France. Invasive textile legislation, rationing and threats from German and American couturiers were pushing the design and trade of Parisian style to its limits. It is widely accepted that French fashion was severely curtailed as a result, isolated from former foreign clients and deposed of its crown as global queen of fashion. This pioneering book offers a different story. Arguing that Paris retained its hold on the international haute couture industry right throughout WWII, eminent dress historians and curators come together to show that, amid political, economic and cultural traumas, Paris fashion remained very much alive under the Nazi occupation - and on an international level.

A captivating look at Parisian fashions of the 1960s and how the ready-to-wear revolution influenced haute couture. The 1960s was one of the most exciting periods in fashion history, as shifting cultural paradigms were embraced by a generation of designers that challenged conventions and reinvented the fashion industry. This compelling volume focuses on the important but too often dismissed fashions that were created in Paris during this time. From the early couture designs of Yves Saint Laurent that initiated a trend toward a more relaxed and youthful style, to the popularity of ready-to-wear fashions by Emmanuelle Khanh - part of a new group known as the stylists - this book traces the development of Parisian fashion during the 1960s and its continuing legacy.

Styling Shanghai is the first book dedicated to exploring the city's fashion cultures, examining its growing status as one of the world's foremost fashion cities. From its origins as an international treaty port in the 19th century, Shanghai has emerged as a global leader in the production, mediation and consumption of fashion. This book reveals how the material and imaginative context of this thriving urban centre has produced vivid interpretations of fashion as object, image and idea.

A noted photohistorian documents bonnets, capes, frock coats, caps, shawls, bodices, and crinolines as people actually wore them from 1840 through 1914. More than 200 photos depict aristocrats and the middle class as well as Oscar Wilde, Lillie Langtry, Winston Churchill, Queen Victoria, and others. Commentary and annotations describe and identify the costumes.

Associations between the cheongsam dress and Chinese cultural identity are well known but what are the meanings of the cheongsam for members of the Chinese diaspora? In a study grounded in first-hand accounts of wearing, Cheryl Sim explores the practices and experiences of women in Canada, a major Chinese diaspora, and carries out the first in-depth study of the cheongsam from this critical point of view.

In the same series as the bestselling American Fashion and American Fashion Accessories, Assouline and the Council of Fashion Designers of America present Men's American Fashion, the most authoritative and exciting book to date on the evolution of menswear in our country over the past century. From Levi Strauss to the Ivy League, lounge suits to Zoot suits, cowboys to counterculture, Men's American Fashion celebrates the quintessentially American themes that are emulated throughout the world of fashion, as well as the designers and style icons who have made lasting contributions to the way men dress.

This book traces the evolution of the style of men's dress through a sequence of diagrams accurately scaled down from patterns of actual garments, many of them rare museum specimens. The plates have been selected with the same purpose. Some are photographs of suits for which diagrams have also been given; others, reproduced from paintings and old prints, show the costume complete with its accessories. Quotations from contemporary sources--from diaries, travelers' accounts and tailors' bills--supplement Norah Waugh's text with comments on fashion and lively eyewitness descriptions.

Traces the development of men's clothing from the eighteenth century to the present, and describes fashion trends.

Fashion is ever-changing, and while some styles mark a dramatic departure from the past, many exhibit subtle differences from year to year that are not always easily identifiable. With overviews of each key period and detailed illustrations for each new style, How to Read a Suit is an authoritative visual guide to the under-explored area of men's fashion across four centuries. Each entry includes annotated color images of historical garments, outlining important features and highlighting how styles have developed over time, whether in shape, fabric choice, trimming, or undergarments. Readers will learn how garments were constructed and where their inspiration stemmed from at key points in history - as well as how menswear has varied in type, cut, detailing and popularity according to the occasion and the class, age and social status of the wearer.

A comprehensive record of male fashion from the French Revolution to the present day, covering every area of clothing and appearance: day wear, court and evening wear, leisure and sports wear, underwear, knitwear, accessories and hairstyles. The guide contains 1000 colour drawings based on research into paintings, photographs and the garments themselves. Arranged in 25-year sections, the drawings reproduce in detail the lines, weaves and patterns of the original garment, with all details and accessories noted. A reference section contains a time chart showing the development of men's fashions over the past 200 years, biographies of influential couturiers in this field and short histories of influential tailors and outfitters.

With Men's Fashion Reader, students of fashion have a resource to help them understand an important, yet sometimes neglected, segment of the apparel industry: menswear. Design and merchandising students learn how and why men buy clothing and how to forecast future trends. Addressing the social, cultural, and psychological phenomenon of men's dress, the readings blend consumer behavior and history to create a better understanding of men's fashion. This book is a must-read for the well-rounded fashionista, designer, merchandiser, or fashion scholar.

From five distinct cities around the world - New York, Tokyo, Milan, London and Sydney - photographer, art director and blogger Giuseppe Santamaria brings together a unique photographic collection showcasing the styles of the modern man. Giuseppe seeks out the everyday man in each city whose dress sense speaks volumes about who they are. Alongside striking images captured from the streets, Giuseppe has chosen a handful of men from each city with a particular, distinct style and photographed them in their various attire, as well as profiled them about their particular approach to fashion and their sense of the menswear scene today.

Taking us from the mod and peacock revolutions of the 1960s to the new wave aesthetics of the 1980s, the book explores historical precedents for today's menswear scene - and looks at the evolution of the 'ideal' male body, from the muscular to the lean and boyish. Combining interviews with fashion professionals with close analyses of garments and advertising, Menswear Revolution provides an authoritative account of menswear design today. Highlighting its relationship to changing concepts of gender, the book provides a much-needed update to scholarship on masculinity, fashion and the body.

Menswear Trends will help you understand the relationship of menswear to society, enabling you to become both a forecaster and trend thinker - and bring new ideas, innovation and strategies to men's fashion. With designer and educator Aki Choklat you'll learn how menswear trends fit within the larger context of retail, how brands can use trends to be more competitive, and how to create an inspiring trend forecast. Later chapters show how to analyse catwalks, gather information from street-style coverage, compare short-term and long-term analysis and how to analyse and forecast colour trends.

A rich, comprehensive collection of images covering the revolution in menswear over the last 100 years with text by fashion historian Cally Blackman. Rare photography and illustrations reveal the elegant tailoring of Savile Row and tough khaki and denim of the uniform and workplace giving way to an exuberant array of styles and colors as the century progresses. Packed with images of Hollywood style icons, the artist personalities of the 1930s, and more, the evolution of menswear from practical to peacock is explored in an array of rarely seen photographs and illustrations.

Beginning with a look at the subcultural world of gay men in the early part of this century -- particularly in New York and London -- this fascinating book analyzes the trends in dress adopted by gay men as well as the challenge gay style has made to mainstream mens fashion. The importance of dress choice to the formation of sexual identity is highlighted, as is gay influence on punk and the fashion industry as a whole.

This book looks at the history of fashion through a queer lens, examining high fashion as a site of gay cultural production and exploring the aesthetic sensibilities and unconventional dress of LGBTQ people, especially since the 1950s, to demonstrate the centrality of gay culture to the creation of modern fashion. Published in association with The Fashion Institute of Technology, New York

Offers an insight into queer fashionability by addressing the role that clothing has played in historical and contemporary lifestyles.

"Queer Threads: Crafting Identity and Community" spotlights an international, intergenerational, intersectional mix of thirty artists who are remixing fiber craft traditions, such as crochet, embroidery, quilting, and sewing, while reconsidering the binaries of art and craft, masculine and feminine, and gay and straight.Designed by Todd Oldham and edited by John Chaich, this 192-page, hardcover, 8 x 10-inch book features full-color spreads of each artist's work, along with intimate details of selections and artist studios, as well as an introductory essay by Chaich, who curated the exhibition of the same name that inspired this book.To further examine how queerness informs their work in fiber and textiles, or vice versa, the artists are interviewed by makers and thinkers from the worlds of dance, design, fashion, media, music, museums, scholarship, and more--many members of the LGBTQ community themselves, and otherwise passionate allies.

The T-shirt is a part of Americana and no more is this reflected than in the gay and lesbian community's struggle for civil rights. Through imagination, wit and a passion for equality, the activists who wrote, designed and more importantly wore them helped define a movement. From the sad to the troubling, poignant to humorous, this is the definitive pop culture chronicler of the age.

While there is an increasing amount of writing on LGBT fashion and dress 138(Cole 2000; Cole and Lewis 2015; Geczy and Karaminas 2013; Steele 2013), there is very little written on its presence in museums and archive collections and so this chapter will consider this in light of debates raised around the collection and display of LGBT materials in museums, galleries and archives.

In Vogue is a fascinating look at the history of the world's most influential magazine. The complete compendium is illustrated with hundreds of covers and archival interiors of past Vogue editions, featuring the work of some of the twentieth century's most respected artists, cover illustrators, and photographers--from Edward Steichen, Toni Frissell, and Erwin Blumenfeld to Irving Penn, Richard Avedon, David Bailey, Helmut Newton, Annie Leibovitz, Mario Testino, Steven Klein, Bruce Webber, and Herb Ritts. The book explains the makings of the magazine--from runways, to editorial meetings, to the pages of Vogue.The thoroughly researched story incorporates first-person accounts, interviews with editors and photographers, and excerpts from stories written in the magazine by many world-renowned writers, including Truman Capote, Aldous Huxley, Richard Burton, Federico Fellini, and Marcello Mastroianni.

The first book to showcase and critically explore the groundbreaking photography of fashion magazines over the last century For nearly a century, fashion magazines have provided sophisticated platforms for cutting-edge photography - work that challenges conventions and often reaches far beyond fashion itself. In this book, acclaimed photography critic Vince Aletti has selected 100 significant magazine issues from his expansive personal archive, revealing images by photographers rarely seen outside their original context. With his characteristic élan and featuring stunning images, Aletti has created a fresh, idiosyncratic, and previously unexplored angle on the history of photography.

A collection of the best fashion photography ever to appear in Vogue displays both the development of a unique art form and the transformation of the modern woman in the twentieth century.

Inventive, glamorous, gorgeous--since the beginning Vogue has set the platinum standard for fashion magazines the world over and has become an icon in its own right. Vogue’s covers sum up the superlative visual ideals of the whole magazine. For the first time, this book brings together in one volume nearly a century of covers both illustrated and photographic. Over 200 stunning images have been selected from an archive of more than 1,500. What sets Vogue’s covers apart is that each is so bold, so beautiful, and so emphatically different. They mark the course of history, chart changing fashions and ideas of beauty, and hold up a mirror to the cultural and social revolutions of the 20th century. Since 1916 Vogue’s covers have celebrated the most striking women of our age, captured by the century's leading photographers, the greatest artists, and the most inventive fashion.

Vogue Paris has always been so much more than a fashion magazine. It has assumed a central and vital role on the international cultural stage, with a history that spans the most inventive decades in fashion and taste, and in the arts and society. It has acted as a cultural bellwether, putting fashion in the context of the larger world in which we live and mirroring its times - the postwar renaissance of Paris and haute couture, the New Wave, the radical seventies, the glamorous eighties. As it enters its second century, it remains at the cutting edge of photography and design. Published to mark the magazine's centenary, this book celebrates Vogue Paris's history from its first issue in 1920 to its current incarnation with Emmanuelle Alt at the helm.

W magazine is renowned for its avant-garde fashion stories, those elaborate confections of magic and mystery that have inspired and captivated readers for more than two decades. This volume gathers 10 of the most remarkable stories, each in its entirety, along with never-before-seen outtakes. Each story was the centerpiece of the issue it appeared in, and together they ride the razor's edge between outrageously provocative and enchanting, from the bizarre (Steven Klein's "One for the Ages") to the alien (Tim Walker's "Planet Tilda") and whimsical (Paolo Roversi's "Carnevale"). These and other stories by Klein, Walker, and Roversi, as well as Steven Meisel, Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott, and Alex Prager, are featured. A special code inside the book provides access to short films shot on the sets of the featured stories by Meisel, Walker, Klein, and Prager.

Anti-Glossy collects some of the most innovative photographers working in the field of fashion, exploring the way new media is influencing the direction of photography for print. As the notion of the "fashion photographer" becomes less distinct, the industry is benefitting from the talents of artists whose influence leads the genre into a multitude of surprising, often shocking, directions. In this collection of new fashion photography, full-page color and black-and-white photographs represent an incredible range of styles and techniques.

Over the last twenty years, fashion photography has emerged as one of culture's core mediums. archeology of elegance presents as archaeological view of the best fashion photography over the last two decades, unearthing the various attitudes and offering a unique perspective on fashion history. Over two hundred images by sixty-two of the world's best photographers serve to visualize the qualities and forms of recent cultural foes, from the rebellious energy and poetry of punk and the post-modern and Modernist variants of 1980s glamor, to the high-tech and futurist aesthetic and the way in which fashion has increasingly become allied the fine art. Ulf Poschardt believes that fashion photography has freed itself from the shackles of utility and can now lay claim to being a discrete art. This collection seems to bear his theory out: the medium has indeed become the message.

Fashion photography captures our desires and fantasies about how we present ourselves to the world, while reflecting the changing values of our culture and society. Fashion Photography: The Story in 180 Pictures explores the profound influence that fashion photography has had on us over the past eight decades, presenting its evolution as a language, and a genre, while showcasing some of its most glamorous moments. Featuring work by every important fashion photographer of the past, alongside those shaping contemporary taste today--including Richard Avedon, Horst P. Horst, William Klein, Helmut Newton, Guy Bourdin, Steven Meisel, Corinne Day, and Juergen Teller, to name a few--fashion chronicler Eugénie Shinkle reveals illuminating moments in the story of fashion and photography, while sketching the bigger picture.

With an introduction that sets out the author's view on the meaning of contemporary fashion photography and its prevalent visual trends, as well as texts on each of the photographers that profile and critique their careers and work to date, this book looks beyond what is 'now' and showcases what comes 'next'.

Female View puts the focus on women fashion photography. Although this medium has been shaped by female photographers for decades, a large number of publications or exhibitions have focused primarily on the male gaze of the female body. Numerous female fashion photographers worked for influential magazines such as Harper's Bazaar or Vogue, thus shaping the style of their time. Using exemplary positions, this book traces the transformation of the photographic image from the 1930s to the present day: from the fashion magazine to the showroom and the coffee table book to videos and digital self-staging in social media today. On display will be works by: Lillian Bassman, Sibylle Bergemann, Petra F. Collins, Corinne Day, Cass Bird, Madame d'Ora, Charlotte March, Ute Mahler, Sarah Moon, Amber Pinkerton, Regina Relang, Alice Springs (June Newton), Bettina Rheims, Ellen von Unwerth, and Yva.

This lavishly illustrated survey of one hundred years of fashion photography updates and reevaluates this history in five chronological chapters by experts in photography and fashion history. It includes more than three hundred photographs by the genre's most famous practitioners as well as important but lesser-known figures, alongside a selection of costumes, fashion illustrations, magazine covers, and advertisements.  

The first book to showcase and critically explore the groundbreaking photography of fashion magazines over the last century For nearly a century, fashion magazines have provided sophisticated platforms for cutting-edge photography - work that challenges conventions and often reaches far beyond fashion itself. In this book, acclaimed photography critic Vince Aletti has selected 100 significant magazine issues from his expansive personal archive, revealing images by photographers rarely seen outside their original context. With his characteristic élan and featuring stunning images, Aletti has created a fresh, idiosyncratic, and previously unexplored angle on the history of photography.

Working from the significant photographic holdings of the University of Washington's Henry Art Gallery, and the University of Washington Libraries, Special Collections, the author examines shifting gender attitudes that emerged in work by women photographers such as Gertrude Käsebier and Diane Arbus. Willis discusses ethnographic ideologies underpinning the work of Edward Sheriff Curtis and Fred E. Miller who worked with Native American subjects, as well as the framing and reframing of images of black people in the work of Samuel Montague Fassett and Carrie Mae Weems. Additionally, the effects of fashion and desire on the imaging of beauty are examined in the work of such artists as Don Wallen, Janieta Eyre, and Jan Saudek.

Pixel Surgeons presents the very best of today's styling and illusion in fashion and lifestyle photography. Fifty years ago fashion photography was perceived as the elitist preserve of glossy magazines across the world. Today it is part of 21st century lifestyle. Commuting to and from work, we are subjected to billboards advertising well-known labels. It is now de rigueur for every tabloid to contain a fashion features page. Style magazines - for both men and women - dominate the heaving newsagent's shelves. Media awareness and discriminating aesthetics have provoked a multi-layered language of fashion photography, and digital technology has introduced a level of image manipulation that has further enriched the genre. Martin Dawber presents the work of over 30 of the most exceptional new international practitioners of photography, styling, and digital manipulation, exploring their methods and influences.

A noted photohistorian documents bonnets, capes, frock coats, caps, shawls, bodices, and crinolines as people actually wore them from 1840 through 1914. More than 200 photos depict aristocrats and the middle class as well as Oscar Wilde, Lillie Langtry, Winston Churchill, Queen Victoria, and others. Commentary and annotations describe and identify the costumes.

A collection of the best fashion photography ever to appear in Vogue displays both the development of a unique art form and the transformation of the modern woman in the twentieth century.

The incredible untold story of how Ann Lowe, a Black woman and granddaughter of slaves, rose above personal struggles and racial prejudice to design and create one of America's most famous wedding dresses of all time for Jackie Kennedy. Based on the true story of one of the most famous designers of the twenties through the sixties who has since been unjustly forgotten, By Her Own Design is an unforgettable novel of determination despite countless obstacles and a triumph celebrated by the world.

An inspiring picture book biography about the amazing Ann Lowe--the first nationally-known African American fashion designer. Award-winning author Kate Messner, costume historian Margaret E. Powell, and fashion designer and illustrator Erin Robinson tell the powerful story of the ground-breaking Ann Lowe, who grew up in a small Alabama dress shop and became the first nationally-known African American fashion designer. Sought after by millionaires and movie stars, her designs walked the red carpet and graced the wedding of Senator John F. Kennedy and Jacqueline Bouvier.

Vivienne Westwood is a global fashion icon whose career has spanned three decades. This book, published to accompany the first retrospective of her work, at the Victoria and Albert Museum, London, highlights one woman's creative journey from the early days of punk to the establishment of her own fashion house. Westwood has been an influence on the worlds of art, music, and fashion since the early 1970s. One of the first designers to create subversive fashion, clothes that disseminated political messages, she later found inspiration in history and literature, producing clothes that are witty, original, and technically accomplished. The book's 200 photographs, a mix of ad campaigns, fashion shoots, catwalk shots, and archival images, many rarely seen or long forgotten, chart the evolution of Westwood's work from outfits worn by the Sex Pistols to more recent creations for Sarah Jessica Parker, Cameron Diaz, and artist Tracy Emin.

Vivienne Westwood was the Queen of Punk Rock and her fashions have scandalized and fascinated the world since the Sixties. Parading models bare-breasted down the catwalks of Paris, posing pantiless outside Buckingham Palace - she has an insatiable appetite for anarchic outrageousness. She has never lost her power to shock, and her continued innovations make her one of the most talked-about fashion designers in the world. Vivienne Westwood describes for the first time in detail Westwood's childhood and early years; it also exposes the inside story of her stormy and bizarre relationship with musician and fashionista Malcolm McLaren. Fred Vermorel looks at the origins of Westwood's witty and erotic sensibility, placing it in the context of the Sixties, and throwing light on the dynamics of punk and on Westwood's later ability to tap into the inner logic of fashion - a Romantic perversity which is at the heart of mass consumption itself.

A full-scale retrospective of Oscar de la Renta's work, this magnificent volume, which accompanies an exhibition at the Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco, features the designs that defined the fashion icon's long career. In this fabulous book, readers will be immersed in the designs that made Oscar de la Renta one of fashion's most influential designers, who dressed celebrities, American First Ladies, and socialites from around the world. Thematic sections will trace de la Renta's journey, from his upbringing in the Dominican Republic; the rise of his career in Spain, where he gained his first commissions; his formative years spent in the world's preeminent fashion houses; and the eventual creation of the company that bears his name. Luxurious color illustrations include images from his historic 1973 fashion show at Versailles, his designs worn from the red carpet to the White House by glamor icons such as Sarah Jessica Parker and Taylor Swift, along with state dinner-worthy creations made exclusively for Hillary Clinton and Laura Bush.

In October 2014 one of the fashion world's champions, Oscar de la Renta, passed away, a great loss brightened by the innumerable successes of his half-century reign. The acclaimed fashion designer dressed first ladies from Kennedy to Obama, and celebrities from Jackie O to Beyonce.

"Oscar completely understands who he is and who he is dressing...He's never tried to be avant-garde or difficult. He just does really good clothes, never overtly sexy but attractive, colorful and feminine." Anna Wintour Oscar de la Renta is one of the most celebrated and famed fashion designers and couturiers in the world--a renaissance man of American fashion. Born in the Dominican Republic, he has played a central role in the fashion scene for over forty years and has dressed everyone in the celebrity world. Brimming with images from Oscar de la Renta's personal albums and iconic fashion photography, this beautifully updated volume of the 2002 edition of 'Oscar de la Renta: The Style, Inspiration, and Life of Oscar de la Renta' gives an inside view of the designer's creative inspirations and private world. Renowned fashion writer Sarah Mower chronicles the story of this always relevant and beloved luminary--from the beginning of his storied career through today--a man whose artistic, generous spirit transcends his fashion creations. 150 illustrations

Since launching his first fashion collection in 1973, Manfred Thierry Mugler has been celebrated for his fierce creative vision. Drawing inspiration from everything from architecture and theatre to Old Hollywood and futurism, Mugler not only designs his collections, but also stages his own shows, directs the advertising campaigns, and photographs his fantastical creations. Including both iconic and never-before-published images, this book is illustrated with more than 150 photographs from his captivating personal collection and includes a travel journal-inspired text that follows Mugler around the world on his shoots, offering a behind-the-scenes look at how the images came to be.

The definitive book on the iconic couturier and fashion revolutionary Thierry Mugler Thierry Mugler has, since the creation of his label in 1974, continuously revolutionized contemporary fashion with his singular, imaginative vision. Beyond creating his iconic ready-to-wear and haute couture garments, Mugler inhabits multiple worlds as a photographer, director, choreographer, and perfumer. Lavishly designed and richly illustrated, the book traces Mugler's career and reveals never-before-seen material by photographers such as Helmut Newton, Richard Avedon, and David LaChapelle.

Before Off-White, before Hood By Air, before Supreme, there was WilliWear. Willi Smith created inclusive and liberating fashion: "I don't design clothes for the queen, but the people who wave at her as she goes by," he said. A rising star from the time he left Parsons, Smith went on to found WilliWear with Laurie Mallet in 1976 and became one of the most successful designers of his era by his untimely death in 1987. Smith broke boundaries with his streetwear, or "street couture," and trailblazed the collaborations between artists, performers, and designers commonplace today in projects with SITE Architects, Nam June Paik, Christo and Jeanne-Claude, Spike Lee, Dan Friedman, Bill T. Jones, and Arnie Zane.

Patrick Kelly (1954-1990) was known for his bold, bright, and joyful fashion creations that resonated in the streets and nightclubs and on the runways of New York, Paris, and beyond. The first American and the first Black designer to be admitted to the governing body of the French fashion industry, Kelly boasted celebrity couture clients including Madonna, Cicely Tyson, and Gloria Steinem. His designs are distinguished by a combination of playful aesthetics and a willingness to brazenly foreground race and heritage and push cultural boundaries, including racial tropes like golliwogs, or Black baby dolls. Generously illustrated with hundreds of images of runway photography, garments on mannequins, and never-before-published archival materials, this book is an unprecedented exploration of Kelly's influential career, which was tragically cut short by complications from AIDS. More than 80 of Kelly's most beloved works are featured alongside thoughtful essays focusing on his work in relationship to French fashion, Queer identity, Black identity, and his exuberant runway shows. Also featured is a detailed timeline decorated with archival photographs and drawings, making this volume the definitive resource on Kelly's life and work.

Extravagant and supersexy, the fashions of Gianni Versace (1946-1997) combined the expert craftsmanship and luxury of haute couture with the sheer creativity of the street. Instantly recognizable for their glamour quotient -- who could forget Elizabeth Hurley in her slit-up-to-there Safety-pin Dress? -- the deceptively fragile designs utilized innovative fabrics and meticulous construction to anchor their illusions. Although thoroughly modern, the clothes also drew inspiration from fine art: Versace counted Delaunay, Calder, and Klimt among his influences.This fun, flamboyant paperback befits Versace's duality -- high art mixed with media hype, delicate garments built from durable materials.

Richard Martin, Curator in Charge, The Costume Institute, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, has written a conceptual and analytical text that both places Versace's work in historical context and provides new insights into the major inspirations and themes of the designer.

Weaving together elegance, delicacy, and femininity, Carolina Herrera has defined a graceful aesthetic that is all her own. Born into an aristocratic Venezuelan family, Herrera's fashion sensibilities developed at the age of 13 when she attended her first fashion show. From her emergence as a renowned beauty surrounded by royals and artists like Andy Warhol, to being known as the woman who dresses women who know how to dress, Carolina Herrera has established herself as a fashion icon. Through the celebrated photographies of Annie Leibovitz, Francesco Scavullo, Horst, Robert Mapplethorpe, and Mario Testino, as well as the words of friends, colleagues, and admirers such as Calvin Klein, Ian Schrager and Bianca Jagger, Carolina Herrera is a portrait of one of today's most timeless designers. With an introduction by Hamish Bowles, this book tells the story of one of fashion's most remarkable women.

During her thirty-five year career, the Venezuelan-American fashion designer Carolina Herrera has dressed First Ladies from Jackie Kennedy to Michelle Obama, royalty, celebrities, and her faithful international clientele. A perennial favorite on red carpets around the world, Herrera has a loyal, impassioned following for gowns that New York Magazine has called "refined and achingly elegant." This book, to be illustrated with archival and new photography of designs from 1981 through present day, is the first to focus on this important American designer's career.

The first monograph on fashion designer Prabal Gurung, packed with stories, design inspiration, and never-before-seen photographs In February 2017, Prabal Gurung ended his show with a parade of feminist tees featuring phrases like "This Is What a Feminist Looks Like," "Voices for Choices," and "We Will Not Be Silenced." A year later, his collection took inspiration from two female-dominated Asian cultures. Activism is built into designer Gurung's ethos and the celebration of female empowerment serves as a constant focal point of his designs. He presents femininity with a bite, beauty with substance, and a diverse, inclusive world that is "Stronger in Color."Prabal Gurung offers a window into Gurung's design process, and it is filled with inspiration, mood boards, sketches, runway shots, and photographs of the clothing from the last 10 years. The Prabal Gurung woman is modern, intelligent, elegant, assured, and socially responsible, and this book is a celebration of people of all ages, races, shapes, sizes, sexualities, and identities.